Tahchin Morgh: oven-baked saffron rice with chicken

Ingredients and method

Ingredients

• 2 US cups uncooked white basmati rice (not brown or instant rice)
• About 8 US cups water for boiling and draining the rice
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt for the rice boiling water, most discarded
• 12 ounces boneless skinless chicken breast, cut into roughly 1-inch pieces
• 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil for cooking the chicken
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon ground paprika
• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt for the chicken
• 12 saffron threads, measured before grinding, plus 4 tablespoons hot water for blooming
• 1 US cup plain unsweetened whole-milk Greek yogurt
• 3 large eggs, refrigerated until use
• 1/2 US cup neutral vegetable oil for the rice mixture
• 1 teaspoon additional vegetable oil to grease a 9-by-9-inch metal baking pan at least 2 inches deep
• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt for the rice-and-yogurt mixture

Method

1. Set a lower-middle oven rack and preheat to 350°F (175°C). In a skillet over medium heat, warm the 2 tablespoons olive oil and cook the onion until soft and lightly golden. Add the chicken cubes, turmeric, paprika and the chicken's 3/4 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring and turning, until several of the largest pieces measure 165°F (74°C) in their centers. Transfer to a clean plate and proceed with the rice; wash hands and clean any raw-chicken utensils.
2. Grind the 12 saffron threads, stir into 4 tablespoons hot water and leave to bloom in a small covered bowl. Let the infusion cool to warm before it meets the eggs. This measured hot-water bloom replaces the source's ice method.
3. Rinse the basmati several times and drain. Bring about 8 cups water and the boiling-water salt to a rolling boil. Add the rice and stir gently. Start checking a cooled grain after 5–8 minutes: it should be soft outside with a firm center. Drain immediately. Leave in the colander just until no longer steaming hot, while whisking the binder. Do not cook it completely soft or hold the partly cooked rice at room temperature for later assembly.
4. Grease the bottom and sides of the 9-by-9-inch metal pan. Whisk the yogurt, eggs, half cup oil, remaining 3/4 teaspoon salt and warm saffron infusion in a large bowl. Fold in the warm drained rice gently until coated. The rice and infusion should not be hot enough to scramble the eggs.
5. Spread about half of the coated rice evenly in the baking dish and press it lightly into the corners. Distribute the fully cooked chicken and onion in a level layer, keeping the filling slightly away from the outside rim. Cover completely with the rest of the rice mixture and gently level the top.
6. Cover with foil and make several small vent holes. Bake immediately at 350°F, starting to check near 1 hour; the source's reference bake is about 1 hour 20 minutes. The rice should be fully tender and set, with a dry-looking top. Check the casserole center in more than one spot for at least 165°F (74°C). A metal pan hides the bottom crust, so do not tip a hot pan to inspect underneath or keep baking solely for a darker top. Continue if the center is below temperature or the rice is still hard.
7. Rest in the pan for 10–20 minutes. Loosen the edges with a thin spatula. For an inverted presentation, place a heat-safe platter larger than the pan over it and hold both securely with oven mitts while turning together. If a safe grip or release is doubtful, cut and serve from the pan. Divide leftovers into shallow containers and refrigerate within 2 hours, or 1 hour above 90°F.