Shirin Polo: Persian sweet rice with candied citrus and nuts

Ingredients and method

Ingredients

• 3 US cups uncooked white basmati rice, rinsed and drained (not instant)
• At least 10 US cups water to parboil and drain the rice, separate from peel candying water
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt in the rice-boiling water, mostly rinsed away
• About 1 US cup thin strips of orange and tangerine peel, colored outer layer only (start with 1 medium orange and 2 tangerines; fruit size varies)
• 1 US cup water for the citrus-peel syrup, plus extra clean water for two preliminary peel boils
• 1/2 US cup granulated sugar for the citrus-peel syrup
• 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter for golden onions
• 5 ounces matchstick carrots (store-bought unsweetened matchsticks or freshly julienned)
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter for sautéing carrots
• 1/3 US cup plain raisins, checked for stems, briefly rinsed and thoroughly drained
• 1/3 US cup unsalted slivered almonds (tree nuts)
• 1/3 US cup unsalted shelled pistachios, roughly chopped (tree nuts)
• 3 tablespoons neutral vegetable oil for steaming rice
• 1/4 teaspoon ground culinary saffron mixed with 2 tablespoons hot water for the rice
• A pinch of kosher salt for the carrots
• 1–2 tablespoons extra hot water only if needed to finish steaming firm rice

Method

1. Scrub the citrus under running water. With a peeler or small knife, remove the colored outer peel while leaving behind thick white pith. For thin-skinned tangerines, peel first and carefully scrape away remaining pith. Cut into fine strips and measure about 1 cup; the fruit count is only a shopping estimate.
2. Put the strips in a small saucepan, cover with fresh water and boil uncovered for 5–7 minutes. Drain and repeat in fresh water for another 5–7 minutes. Drain again. These two blanchings soften the peel and reduce bitterness.
3. Bring the measured cup of water and half cup sugar to a boil in the saucepan. Add the peel and lower to a gentle uncovered simmer, stirring occasionally, until the strips look translucent and only about 2–3 tablespoons syrup remain. Keep it fluid, not caramel-brown. Take off the heat and let vigorous bubbling settle before using a slotted spoon to spread the peel on a plate. Reserve the syrup; do not touch or taste it while hot.
4. Rinse and drain the rice. Bring the separate 10 cups water and tablespoon salt to a rolling boil in a 5- to 6-quart pot. Add rice and stir gently. Start checking a cooled grain after 5–8 minutes; drain when the outside is soft and center still firm. Briefly rinse with cool water and drain well.
5. Warm the 3 tablespoons oil in the empty pot over medium-low heat. Add the rice loosely in three additions, drizzling some saffron infusion between additions. Fit the lid without a loose towel. Establish gentle steam, then lower the heat to maintain it. Check from 40 minutes, allowing about an hour or longer until the grains are tender. If still firm and dry, sprinkle 1–2 tablespoons hot water over the top and continue covered. Keep all syrup, peel and toppings out of this pot.
6. While the rice steams, cook the sliced onion in 3 tablespoons butter over medium-low heat until golden, stirring often; transfer to a bowl. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in the skillet. Add carrot matchsticks and a pinch of salt; cook over medium heat, stirring, until tender with golden edges. Remove from heat until the rice is nearly ready.
7. During the last few minutes, warm the carrots over low heat with half the reserved syrup. Push them aside and add the drained raisins, almonds and pistachios to separate areas of the same skillet. Drizzle the remaining syrup over them and stir each gently for a few minutes, just until warmed and coated. Lower or turn off the heat if sugar or nuts begin to darken rapidly.
8. Layer the cooked rice, carrots, golden onion and raisins loosely on a platter. Finish with the almonds, pistachios and candied peel. Serve promptly. Refrigerate leftovers in shallow containers within 2 hours, or 1 hour above 90°F, at 40°F or colder; reheat to 165°F.