Dolmeh Barg: vegetarian Persian stuffed grape leaves with herbs

Ingredients and method

Ingredients

• About 5 ounces drained, rinsed jarred grape leaves packed in brine, plus spare leaves for lining and any leftover filling
• 1/4 US cup dried yellow split peas, picked over and rinsed (not whole chickpeas or chana dal)
• 1/3 US cup dry jasmine rice, rinsed
• 1/4 US cup medium-grind bulgur wheat, rinsed (not whole wheat berries or couscous)
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter for the split peas
• 1 1/2 US cups thinly sliced scallions, tender white and green parts, washed
• 1 US cup finely chopped fresh cilantro, measured after chopping
• 1/2 US cup finely chopped fresh dill
• 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
• 1/4 US cup neutral vegetable oil for softening and browning the onion
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• A pinch of cayenne pepper, optional
• 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt for the filling to start; add none between layers of brined leaves
• 2 ounces (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted, for the filling
• 3 tablespoons plain unsweetened whole-milk Greek yogurt for the filling
• 1 US cup water for the final covered simmer, plus separate water to cover the split peas and extra hot water if needed
• Plain unsweetened yogurt mixed with minced fresh garlic for serving, optional

Method

1. Carefully unfold the grape leaves, reserve a few torn leaves for the pot and rinse away the brine under cool water. Follow any preparation directions on the jar. If leaves are still stiff or very salty, cover them with hot water for 20 minutes, then rinse and drain again. Trim the tough stem ends. Keep extra leaves available: their sizes determine how much filling each can hold.
2. Put the yellow split peas in a small saucepan with the tablespoon of butter and enough water to cover by about an inch. Bring to a boil, reduce to a gentle simmer and cook until beginning to soften but still firm, checking after about 15 minutes. Add a splash of hot water if they become exposed. Actual yellow split peas vary in cooking time; do not substitute a different dried legume.
3. Rinse the rice and bulgur, add them to the partly cooked peas and return to a boil for 2–3 minutes. The mixture should stay moist; add a little hot water if the pan is dry. Remove from the heat. Let the grains absorb the remaining moisture, stirring once or twice; drain only if a substantial puddle remains. Cool briefly until comfortable to handle, while preparing the onion and herbs.
4. While the legumes simmer, cook the sliced yellow onion over moderate heat in the measured quarter cup oil, stirring until golden. Wash the scallions, cilantro and dill, dry them, chop them finely, and place in a large mixing bowl with minced garlic, turmeric, cinnamon, black pepper and optional cayenne.
5. Combine the partly cooked grains and peas with the herbs and spices, fried onion, 3 tablespoons yogurt and melted 2 ounces butter. Add up to the starting half teaspoon salt, using less for salty leaves. Do not add extra salt between layers of brined leaves.
6. Line the bottom of a heavy 3-quart lidded saucepan with spare leaves. Put a sound leaf on a board, vein side up. Spoon 1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon filling into its center according to leaf size, then overlap the four edges to make a roughly 1 1/2-inch square packet. Keep it snug enough to hold together but leave a little space for the grains to expand. Two smaller leaves can overlap to make one wrapper.
7. Arrange the packets folded-side down, closely side by side, and continue in close layers. Wrap any remaining filling using the spare leaves. Set a clean heat-safe plate over the packets to hold them in place. The plate should fit loosely enough to remove safely; it must not wedge tightly inside the pot.
8. Pour the measured cup of water in at the side and cover. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat, then reduce to medium-low for about 30 minutes. Lower the heat slightly and continue a very gentle covered simmer for about an hour. Check the liquid occasionally, adding a small amount of hot water if the bottom is drying. Open one packet carefully near the end: its leaf, rice, bulgur and split peas must all be tender. Continue cooking if the center is still hard.
9. Rest off heat for a few minutes. Remove the hot inner plate carefully with mitts or tongs and lift the packets out one at a time. Offer garlic yogurt separately if desired. Refrigerate leftovers promptly in shallow containers within 2 hours, or 1 hour above 90°F.